SUSP-01, CV Joints - General Information, Removal, Installation, and Maintenance
Many thanks to Ben Davis for taking the time document this procedure with pictures.
CV Joint maintenance is an important part of any routine maintenance checks. However, it is often neglected until the CV Joints start to give problems. CV Joints normally let you know when they start to go bad. You'll hear a clicking sound coming from the rear of the car that can normally be pinpointed to one side of the car. The clicking may be heard during normal driving or in a turn on the outside rear axle.
Quite often a clicking CV Joint can be repaired by simply removing the axle, cleaning the CV Joint, and repacking. Over time, the grease in the CV Joint tends to disappear, even on CV Joints with boots that are in perfect condition. Don't ask me where it goes, I don't know.
If a CV Joint is damaged and needs to be repaired, there are several options. Individual CV Joints kits are available from Porsche. I don't know off hand, if they are available from aftermarket suppliers. You can also purchase complete new or rebuilt axles. Or, if just the boot is bad, you can purchase a boot kit. The part numbers for all these are included below.
|944 331 901 00||CV Joint Kit||1977-1988 924/S/T
|951 332 901 00||CV Joint Kit||1987-1991 944T|
|944 331 903 00||Boot Kit||1977-1988 924/S/T
|951 332 901 00||Boot Kit||1987-1991 944T|
|477 501 103||Axle - Manual Transmission||1977-1985.5 924/T, 944|
|477 501 101A||Axle - Left Auto Transmission||1977-1985.5 924, 944|
|477 501 102A||Axle - Right Auto Transmission||1977-1985.5 924, 944|
|944 332 038 01||1985.5-1991 924S, 944/S/S2
|Axle - Manual Transmission|
|951 332 038 02||1987-1991 944T||Axle|
|944 332 038 02||1985.5-1991 924S, 944||Axle - Left Auto Transmission|
|944 332 038 03||1985.5-1991 924S, 944||Axle - Right Auto Transmission|
The 8mm - 12 point tool is available at most major auto parts stores and is made by Lisle. Sometimes you'll find it as part of a set of three 12 point tools (8mm, 10mm, 12mm) as they are used in a number of GM applications. However, if the store has the set of three, they should also be able to get them individually as well. Bear in mind before you pass on the set of three that the all three sizes are used in various applications on the 944. The 8mm tool is also used on the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. The 10mm is used on the Camshaft sprocket bolt. And, the 12mm is used on the flywheel to crankshaft bolts. These tools are also known as "cheesehead" tools and if you get them from Snap-On, it's a "triple square" tool. The Lisle tools have the 12 point on one end and a hex head on the other end, so they have to be inserted into a socket to be used. They are also relatively inexpensive (around $8 USD each). The Snap-On tool is significantly more expensive (around $25 USD) . However, the quality is better, they have a lifetime warranty, and the 12 point is mounted in a socket.
If you are re-greasing your CV joints, odds are a lot of grease has leaked out and is probably caked to the outside of the CV joint, the axle, and the boot. It is probably also caked deeply into the bolts which make for difficult bolt removal, and probable stripping of your bolt or your cheese-head bit. A quick pass with a power-washer can simplify matters drastically, or getting the gunk out of the bolts with a brush and some solvent. It's well worth the few extra minutes.
It will be necessary to hold the wheel while loosening the CV Joint bolts. If the car is low enough, you may place a block underneath the wheel. Otherwise you'll have to hold the wheel yourself, or have an assistant hold the wheel, or lock the wheel by using the parking brake or placing the transaxle in gear while loosening the bolts.
When disassembling the CV Joints, be sure to keep the parts from each CV Joint together. Don't mix them with the parts from other CV Joints.
If you are having difficulty inserting the inner race into the outer race with the ball bearings intact, you may find it easier with this alternative method: Remove all the ball bearings, then insert the inner race into the outer race, and tilt the inner race while installed to insert the ball bearings one at a time. After the last ball bearing has been inserted, the inner race will already be in place.
Clark's Garage © 1998